St. Augustine is steeped in centuries of Florida history, and many of our landmarks are nothing short of iconic. But our slice of history is only one piece of the state’s rich and abiding culture. So that’s why, when we got the chance to spend a weekend in Key West at The Gates Hotel, we were excited to see another side to the tapestry of Old Florida. We would be stepping into an entirely different era – an era of white linen suits, minty mojitos, and front porch cigars.
With each destination featured in our Getaway column, we’ve tried to highlight a city that would be a quick and easy trip for a St. Augustinian’s weekend vacation. And at a seven and a half hour drive, Key West might be a little bit of a stretch. But the first few hours went by quickly as we made our way down the length of the state, and for the last three hours, you get to drive through the Keys themselves. An almost entirely two-lane road takes you all the way from Key Largo to Key West, and the drive is breathtaking. On either side of you are shining blue waters and quirky beach houses, dive bars and sailboats. But of course, if these hours in the car don’t appeal to you, a flight to Key West is relatively inexpensive.
Too often with accommodations in locations like Key West, a hotel will offer a watered-down version of the local culture. They cater to surface tourists who want to hit the highlights (and the souvenir shop) and call it a day. But The Gates has procured something a bit more authentic than that. As a hotel, of course, their guests are visitors to the island, but their partnerships reveal a desire to make everyone a little bit more of a local.
When we walked into the lobby, the interior was like a breath of fresh air. In blues, whites, and natural textures, it held a subtle and elegant island charm. Refreshing – especially after our time in the car. While we waited in line to check in, an attendant prepared a fruity rum drink for us to sample, and the concierge informed us that the property manager would be down soon to give us a quick tour of the grounds.
For a hotel in as packed an island as Key West, the grounds of The Gates (and its next-door sister hotel 24° North) were surprisingly expansive. The rooms of the hotel surround a large pool with shaded cabanas that you can reserve for the afternoon. Next to the pool is Rum Row, the hotel bar that features (unsurprisingly) a lot of classic cocktails and twists on rum favorites. In between the two hotels was a long green, dotted with picnic tables and the occasional lawn game. The space, explained the property manager, could be rented for weddings, and every once in a while, the green would play host to a concert.
A quick trip to our room – that held the same refreshing feeling as the lobby – and we walked downstairs to catch the shuttle to Mallory Square. Since the hotel is a few minutes drive from Old Town, the hotel offers a shuttle at intervals throughout the day (and bikes to rent if you prefer a little exercise). The ferry to Old Town, as well, docks close by.
After Cuban food at El Meson de Pepe – with some very polite chickens as our dining companions – and a good night’s sleep, we were ready for a full day the next morning. On the hotel’s lawn sits The Blind Pig food truck, serving cuisine that’s been lovingly dubbed “conch-fusion” (a blend of regional Cuban, Bahamian, Caribbean, and Floridian flavors). So after a hearty breakfast in the sun of omelets with tomato confit and yogurt with fresh fruit, we hopped on the shuttle to meet The Gates Hotel’s local partners.
Our first stop was the Key West First Legal Rum Distillery (yeah, that’s a mouthful), the supplier of most of the rum served at Rum Row. With a name like that, we kind of expected a tourist trap – a kitschy tour and a lot of souvenirs – but the distillery ended up being the highlight of our trip. Established in only 2013, the distillery is situated in Old Town in a former Coca-Cola bottling plant. And the space is small, only a cozy bar at the front and one large-ish room where the rum is distilled. We were shown around by the owner and self-proclaimed “Chef Distiller,” Paul Menta. Having worked in the restaurant industry as a chef for years, Paul approached rum making a little differently. He favored experimentation over sticking fervently with tradition – a fact that has gotten him a few sidelong glances from seasoned distillers but has succeeded in making an amazing rum.
“I’ve been a rum drinker all my adult life,” Paul told us. “But it was always a struggle to find one that didn’t give me a hangover by even drinking just a little.” So when he started distilling his own rum, Paul’s goal was to make it as pure, clean, and as easy to drink as possible. After walking us through the distilling process, Paul regaled us with stories of running their rum into Cuba on a boat and bringing his off-the-wall ideas into distilling conventions. I could tell you those stories, but do yourself a favor and ask Paul yourself. His energy for his work is electric, and his talent for rum distilling is sublime.
After we brought lunch from the Blind Pig to a local beach, our next tour was set for the Rodriguez Cigar Factory that makes the cigars offered in the hotel’s on-site cigar garden, if you feel like indulging in the old school Key West atmosphere. The factory is tucked into an unassuming corner of a side street in Old Town, the dazzling sun turning the shop’s dust gold in the air. An elderly woman swept in the corner as we breathed in the smell of aged tobacco.
Each cigar is hand-rolled with cured and aged vintage tobacco leaves on a small grouping of tables in the back of the room. Dark boxes of cigars line the shelves on the walls. Established in 1984, the Rodriguez Cigar Factory is the oldest operating cigar manufacturer on the island. The history of Key West cigars in general, alongside the history of the business itself, is seeped into the floorboards.
A stay at The Gates Hotel allows you to be integrated into the history and culture that permeates the island. You dine on delicious flavor, drink something special, and experience a little history. They’ve worked hard to create an experience for guests who want to become a part of Key West.
Learn more about The Gates Hotel by visiting www.gateshotelkeywest.com.